Over the last few years there have been a lot of people questioning if Paris is still the capital of fashion with some calling New York or London the new capital. But for me with out doubt Paris will always be the capital of fashion, this does not mean that there is more talent coming out of this city on a yearly basis, it’s just that the history of fashion is Paris. Haute Couture started in Paris and the fact is there are more high end designers and fashion houses in Paris than any other city in the world. So for me, that means some of the most influential shows are still coming out of Paris. Here are my favorite looks from the 2014 Paris fall fashion week.
There are so many shows and so much talent being shown in Paris, it makes it very difficult to pick the best shows. I have narrowed it down to my six of my favorites again based on womens jackets, blazers and other womens outerwear influences.
Hedi Silmane managed to show a fresh and young 60’s looking collection that still stayed true to the Yves Saint Laurent look especially when everything managed to fade back to black so perfectly. Hedi showed models in school girl English tweed capes and tartan plaids by day and all black glittery looks by night. 60’s A line silhouettes with knee high boots, furs, beaded frocks, chains and sequence with leather being the main his influences from what I could see.
In the last few years Haider Ackerman has become one of my favorite designers. He has a definite point of view that he sticks to which is a spare, modern and clean look with a touch of masculinity in its tailoring. He showed lots of layers topped with jackets and blazers with skinny python and leather pants. One of his main patterns being Hounds tooth which he carried forward from last season.
Like usual Raf Simons showed us he is the master of mixing colors. I loved all the bold and bright primary colored sleeveless coats and outerwear. There were corset lace ups to cinch in waistlines and show off a woman’s curves which is a nice change from all the oversized silhouettes at the other shows. He managed to show a beautiful masculine inspired show but feminized just the right way with bright color and details.
Alber Elbaz did a dark and fierce collection but in a really chic way. There were lots of tweeds with frayed hems and raw edges and ruffles and asymmetrical hems. He loved using lots of fur and fuzzy textures, pleated and regular leather, long tassel fringes and jet beads and beautiful dramatic neckwear.
Dries Van Noten
There were lots of graphic stripes and curves and patterns at this show with a little bit of Art Deco influence. Big floral appliqués in reds and oranges and copper and silver prints were put on coats and dress and skirts. Lots of embroideries and embellishments and big flower pins were decorating the garments.
Maison Martin Margiela
Margiela used beautiful menswear British tweeds and herringbones but feminized them with belting them and using pagoda shoulders. A lot of the menswear tailoring was chopped up in unexpected ways to give it an interesting new look. There was also a touch of red thrown into all the beautiful neutral colors and black. Also the house’s famous white cotton stitches were replaced with iconic Harris Tweed Logo.